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Panama to Tahiti
Panama to Tahiti
27th August 1965. Tucked like chickens under their mother's wings, Sandefjord and Physalia, her companion for the passage through the Panama Canal, lies diminutively astern of the Italian cargo ship Antonio Pacinotti.
Great excitement as the last lock gates open on the Pacific side...... from this point on - home port Durban always lay AHEAD rather than astern.
Bound for the legendary Galapagos! A fair breeze for the first 20 hours...
...and the wind dies. Calms and baffling light airs would be the order of the day for the next 12 days - with speed less than 2 knots. Don't worry, our engine was not up to the job either!
"A painted ship upon a painted ocean". Good swimming - and would you believe it, a fine party even developed one night with Doldrum thunder clouds all around.
Two landbirds, hundreds of miles off course, find welcome refuge onboard.
The amazing "Roca Kicker" greets us approaching San Cristobal Island. Here Sande is cleared inwards by Ecuadorian Navy officers. They check our all important Ecuadorian Visa - then accept our hospitality. Had we not had the visa, they would have been obliged to arrest us!
Next, a sheltered anchorage on beautiful Barrington Island.
Sande's crew head shorewards
...and a brisk climb to the summit!
We gaze down on the grand old lady who had safely brought us so far.
Built by Colin Archer in 1913. Sandefjord was 53 years old when we sailed from Durban.
Today she is an amazing 109 years, still very much "alive and well" and carefully looked after by Lena and Ingvald Stølås on the west coast of Norway.
... Mary returns to the first beach and is met by ...
... a disapproving mother seal!
"There we are! ... I like you! ... No need to worry at all."
Sandefjord anchors in Caleta Tagus - an extinct volcano open to the sea and perfect natural harbour. To our amazement we are soon joined by two other sailing vessels, the New Endeavour left and Dante Deo right.
Sande and Dante Deo are challenged by New Endeavour's skipper to a "Great Pacific Sail Race". Before a fresh southerly, schooner Dante Deo forges swiftly ahead.
.... LITTLE SHIP, LARGE OCEAN! ....
Sandefjord heads out into the broad boundless Pacific.
17 days out, on New Years Day 1966, the courses of New Endeavour and Sandefjord cross in the middle of the vast Pacific Ocean.
(Sande did not carry a radio transmitter while New Endeavour's communications were decidely low power - so we were completely unaware of each others positions; this mid-ocean meeting was the most incredible coincidence.)
New Endeavour gybes - we both have the trade on the port quarter, heading west.
Skipper Gordon Keeble invites us aboard! (As many as are able to come).
A line is passed astern down to Sande.
Patrick goes first ....
... followed by Fanie ... Skipper Gordon Keeble is the bearded one standing between Patrick and the guy in white.
Patrick and unidentified New Endeavour crew member.
We enjoy a great morning! And skipper Gordon (ex Royal Navy) finishes the excitement off with ....
... NAVAL MANOEUVRES!! ... A bag of provisions is passed to Sande.
(Difficult to spot but quite straightforward - two lines lead from the masts / yards of both ships.)
25 days later - Sande makes landfall on Tahiti in much the same way as early migrating Polynesians sailing their giant outrigger canoes, made theirs.
Later, Captain Cook discovered Tahiti for the rest of the world - an island inhabited by the most generous and fun-loving people he had ever encountered. The white blob is Venus Point lighthouse.
The waterfront and main road - Papeete, Tahiti.
With Dante Deo having become happily involved with the islanders of Hiva Oa and we having called in at Nuku Hiva in the Marquesas - the "Great Pacific Sail Race" was quietly forgotten!
More excitement - mail from home!
A few days later ... the crews of Sande and Dante Deo gather.
Here, Mary sings her well loved "Hootchy Kootchy Henry of Hawaii".
From left: Tim, Dante Deo's skipper Jack, Patrick (with Tahitian flower garland), Mary, Fanie,
3 unidentified, Wally extreme right.
That was great Mary! That calls for a toast! ....
Patrick makes a point at Quinns Bar on Papeete's waterfront - famous throughout the entire Pacific Ocean!
Wally and Tim
"Aaaahh! ..... That was good!"
A few miles across the water, the magical mystical island of Moorea.
We head for the entrance to Papetoai Bay.
Mount Rotui soars skyward. As with most islands in the Pacific - an encircling coral reef - take the pass with caution!
"OK Fanie, let her come to port now!"
"PORT!" " Right-o Barry!"
"Steady Fanie! Keep the sharp peak just fine on the port bow!"
Sandefjord swings into idyllic Baie Paapao at the head of the beautiful and long Baie Papetoai - the lead in from sea.
... we drop anchor - and Fanie jumps in with the stern line ...
... making it fast round "the tree".
"Heave away me lads!"
Wally (on the windlass): "I think we're aground! - - - Heh, heh, heh, ho, ho, ho, ho!!"
You'd think Fanie had had enough but off he goes with his Swallow Dive!
Off to bathe in a close by running stream!
"Mama de Gaulle"!! A lovely lady. We arrive with a small gift - a bottle of Scotch.
Mama: "You know I like gasoline-whiskey! It is good for me - it good for my toommee!!"
Papa-San.
... daughter Mareva, 18, swings into a stunning traditional "Tamuray".
Mama de Gaulle sings and strums a traditional Tahitian folksong - to which ....
Sailing from Moorea, Sandefjord pauses at a small Pacific atoll.
Ahead, the second half of our Pacific crossing.
Wally: "How far to Sydney, Patrick?" - - "Oh, about 4,000 miles!"
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